Midsummer isn't just a date on the calendar; it's a state of mind. When this time arrives, we feel a sense of freedom, fully embracing the uplifting effects of sunlight. This sentiment is reflected in the kitchen garden as well. Leafy vines fill the polytunnel, summer beans reach for the sky, every bed overflows with crops, and the produce transforms into a vibrant kaleidoscope of colours.
It's that magical time of year when I could happily spend most of my blog just describing the bounty we're harvesting—a delightful change from complaining about the weather.
Tomatoes are my absolute favourite and the most exciting harvest of all. They kept us waiting, but as always, they're totally worth it. This year's harvest is ten days later than last year, which isn't surprising given the challenging spring. Interestingly, the tomatoes were sown four weeks earlier on February 14th. Clearly, with tomatoes, earlier sowing doesn't guarantee earlier harvesting. A new favourite variety is 'Pico’s Pride,' a dwarf plant with incredible variegated stems and yellow fruit bursting with flavour. Cucumbers, aubergine and padron peppers are also cropping well in the polytunnel.
Chard is hitting its stride this month, the poster boy for any kitchen garden. It ticks all the boxes with its stunning colour, good structure, crunchy stalks, and dark, mineral-rich leaves. You'll find it featured in our summer Sunday roasts.
August will bring the first of the leafy kales, with 'Cavolo Nero' being a standout. This chef's favourite is known for its dark colour, strong flavour, and ability to hold its structure well when cooked. There's no rush to pick it, as it will hold happily until autumn when the chard slows down.
Our main crop variety, ‘Pink Fir Apple’ potatoes, faced a fierce battle with early blight, an airborne menace that devastates potatoes by sweeping through the plants and even rotting the tubers. Fortunately, we caught it early and managed to salvage a good portion of the harvest, though we did lose about 40% in total. If you notice brown circular patches on your potato leaves, act fast and harvest as soon as possible. Despite the setback, the potatoes we saved are nothing short of spectacular. Proving difficult to overcook and delightful to eat earning a well-deserved spot on the menu at all three of our hotels.
It's not just the vegetable harvests that are thriving; the cut flower garden right outside the polytunnel is a spectacular sight, bursting with colour and life. An explosion of hues from dahlias, cosmos, cornflowers, zinnias, sunflowers, and a host of other blooms create a mesmerising display. The garden is so abundant that we can't pick the flowers fast enough!
Moles have always been a presence in the river garden, usually making sporadic appearances in the lawned areas around our beds. However, this year, they've taken a keen interest in tunnelling directly underneath our crops, becoming quite a nuisance. Carrots are particularly vulnerable, as their roots suffer greatly from the disturbance. The wetter, more fertile beds seem to provide an easier feeding and tunnelling ground for these furry mammals. While I appreciate their place in nature, their activities are at odds with our no-dig philosophy, presenting a challenging dilemma.
The fertility of the soil in the river garden never ceases to amaze me. This summer's lush growth has been nothing short of astounding. Our autumn raspberries have just started to bear fruit and have grown taller than me, their bed overflowing despite being thinned out twice in spring and summer. Yet, these raspberries are dwarfed by the neighbouring crop of Jerusalem artichokes. These sunflower-like plants have soared to over two meters high, continuing their skyward journey, corralled by bamboo canes and clips. Beneath the surface, tubers akin to potatoes lie in wait, ready for harvesting in autumn.
The garden is simply breathtaking this time of year. The hotel grounds look lush for August, with little pockets of rain keeping everything green. The grass has been growing at an incredible rate, keeping, our head gardener, very busy on the lawnmower. When he makes it around to the kitchen garden, it makes a huge difference, framing the beds perfectly and enhancing the area's visual appeal. I wish I could capture it in a photograph, but the garden's sprawl makes it impossible to do it justice from the ground.
In the garden, tasks are very reactive this time of year; nothing is planned weeks in advance. Each day begins with a walk around every bed, and the job list grows rapidly. Constant developments require continuous attention and quick reactions—whether it be weeding, watering, supporting, or watching for pest or disease damage. All of this effort is to ensure we get the maximum potential from our crops.
Speaking of which I better get back to it….
My new recipe is up - FIG LEAF PANNA COTTA WITH RASPBERRIES, WHITE CURRANTS AND HONEY
Until next time…
Darren Stephens
Chef-Gardener, Bishopstrow
